Sea locks and basins
July 9th: The Crinan Canal, consisting of 15 locks and 7 bridges, provides a navigable route from the Firth of Clyde to the Sound of Jura. It’s been traversed by Queen Victoria, immortalised in song, and it was our next destination.
A leisurely morning of shopping for heavy duty sail tape delayed our departure from Tarbert. Despite the favourable conditions, staying on schedule required motoring rather than beating towards Ardrishaig. The journey was mostly spent studying the excellent Crinan Canal Skipper’s Guide (available in several languages) and briefing the crew on the correct use of locks. That is, sharing my five-minute old knowledge.
Ardrishaig sea lock did not exactly scream welcome. With dark, imposing concrete walls and a continuous waterfall from the canal it seemed like the last place you’d want to enter with your shiny boat. The staff, on the other hand, were the definition of welcoming. With a cheery shout of “Are you coming in?” they took our warps with a boathook from high above, and told us to sit tight for a while as they were waiting for someone else. A wide and industrial-looking barge duly arrived, took every inch of remaining space in the lock and made their hurry known.
Ardrishaig tranquility with the sea below
The sea locks at either end of the canal are automatic and staff operated. As is the second last lock at the Crinan end. The remaining 13 are up to you. Our pleasant hostess explained that this lock required a stronger flow of water to pin the sea gates closed, so the crew member on the bow “may get a bit wet.” We were well prepared however and after rising a few metres, we completed the formalities in the lock office then grabbed the last 10m of pontoon space in the crowded Ardrishaig basin for the night. Water levels are adjusted in the evening so there’s no use of the locks after shutdown. Despite every inch of space being claimed, Ardrishaig was a tranquil spot for the night and we visitors were warmly welcomed in the village pub.
Making way on an inland waterway
Peter works the sluice
July 10th: Locking starts at 8.30am and the race to be first through was won by a large motor cruiser, much to the chagrin of the skipper of Mariota. Second prize however was the joy of sharing the locking duties with Obsession. With one of Mariota’s engines staging a protest and one of the husband + wife crew threatening similar, I think they were glad of our help. Our strong crew were well able to manage the ladder climbing, the ropework, the sluices and the heavy lock gates in the warm sunshine. At least it looked that way from the helm …
The canal itself is a joy to navigate. Around the locks the grass was neatly mowed. The gates were freshly painted, the staff were friendly and helpful and the facilities were immaculate and plentiful. The blue sky and warm sunshine probably helped a lot too. Canal boating was a new experience. The clusters of locks were separated by lengthy passages with Scotland’s countryside just a few feet to either side. A welcome break from the sea sailing.
Peace!
Although a sub-6 hour passage is theoretically possible, by evening we found ourselves at lock 14 above the Crinan basin. There we spent a quiet night rafted up to our new friends.
Careful passage planning occupied the evening. Some of Scotland’s fiercest tides awaited outside.