July 6th: Day two’s challenge was the North Channel – the 20 miles-wide body of water between Northern Ireland and Scotland, where spring tides flow up to 4.5 knots.  The more immediate challenge was the 0600 departure, which despite best efforts at waking up and having breakfast soon became a 0630 departure.

This left us five hours of ebb, just enough to get us on to the Scottish coastline and out of the influence of the afternoon’s strong flood.

Corsewall Lighthouse, Scotland

The breeze was slow to build, so a few hours of motoring (and sleep) saw us across the channel.  By lunch it was a solid F4 directly astern, so all available canvas was employed and we were blown up the coast in glorious sunshine.

Tacking up Loch Ryan

Rounding Milleur Point, a clear and professional female Scottish accent announced that “all objects” in Loch Ryan should be aware of the approaching Stena line ferry, of which Loch Ryan hosts many.  My pleasant surprise at the efficient management of marine traffic meant I didn’t even pause to be insulted at being called an object.  The voice turned out to be the harbourmaster, Lesley, who appeared to be managing three busy ports, a marina and everything else in the vicinity single-handedly.  After a fairly exhilarating beat up the Loch, dodging ferries, fishing boats and every kind of mark, we were rewarded with a spacious berth and luxury facilities for a bargain price in Stranraer marina.

A surreal evening of karaoke at a 50th birthday party in The Golden Cross followed.  We weren’t sure if we were the only non-family crowded into the small pub.  But what the hell – we were in Scotland and we felt like celebrating.